Cairo’s Oldest Dye House

September 2020

Egypt is famously known for its tourism industry. It draws millions to the country to learn about its unique ancient history and view the most beautiful archaeological sites and the original Seven Wonders of the World, the Great Pyramids of Giza. Textile manufacturing is also one of the largest industries in Egypt. With Chinese investments, Egypt may become a significant player in the global textile export market. This investment will fund the phased build-out of Egypt’s most famous textile industrial park to over 590 factories by 2022. These factories will house state-of-the-art equipment, efficient processes, and low production costs. 

Elderly dye artisan man wearing traditional clothing sits surrounded by large spools of white thread.

I spent a day in one local dye house in Cairo owned by Salama “Hag” Mahmoud to gain insights into his family business. I wanted to understand and document the dying techniques used and learn about the impact of competition from large factories and the global pandemic on his business. Salama dye house is a family business, and his Artisans include his sons and grandkids. Salama’s dye house is the oldest in Cairo, Egypt, and he uses dyeing techniques that go back to the pharaonic period. The dye house was opened in 1901 in the historic El-Darb El-Ahmar neighborhood of Cairo and rented by Salama in 1975. His small business processes textiles such as silk, cotton, and wool to produce shoelaces, carpets, and towels, among other specialty garments. 

Salama “Hag” Mahmoud (Owner)

Dye artisan man working with red yarn in a textile workshop, surrounded by colorful fabrics and cotton bags.
Egyptian dye artisan in a workshop dyeing yarn in a tub filled with yellow dye.

Mohammed Camel (Artisan)

Egyptian dye artisan standing in a dimly lit dye workshop with a package of yellow yarn.

Mahmoud "Samir" Salaman (Artisan)

Salama’s dyeing method varies by textile but generally includes the following hands-on process:

  1. Place textile thread on quarterstaffs (poles);

  2. Submerge thread into a dying pool that consists of hot water and chemicals to apply color;

  3. Stuff in the wringer to partially dry;

  4. Hang on the roof of the dye house to completely dry.

Once the textiles have dried, they are bagged and distributed to clients in Egypt, the USA, Europe, and the Middle East. Salama admitted he faces competition from large-scale factories. Despite the competition, increased business costs, and decreased demand due to the COVID-19 global pandemic, his clients continue to value quality and pay the premium for his textiles. He remains optimistic that his business will withstand the current and foreseeable hurdles and remain operational within his family for generations.

Mohammed Mustafa (Artisan)

Egyptian dye artisan tending a small open furnace with bright orange flames, wearing dark clothing and sandals, in a dimly lit Egyptian dye house.
View of broken and damaged roof with beams against a bright sky inside an Egyptian dye house.
Egyptian dye artisans touching wooden rods and cloth in a dye workshop.
Egyptian dye artisan working in dark, pouring liquid into large steaming pot over fire.
Egyptian dye artisan stirring a steaming red dye liquid in a large bathtub, in a dimly lit area.
Egyptian dye artisan working in a dimly lit textile dyeing workshop, handling colorful dyed yarns in shades of yellow, pink, and blue.
Egyptian dye artisan in striped shirt standing in a dimly lit dye workspace with textile materials.
Three Egyptian dye artisans working in a textile dyeing workshop, with one man smoking and handling white yarn while two others handle red dyed fabric.
Silhouetted people climbing stairs indoors an Egyptian dye workshop, with light from above highlighting the scene.
Two Egyptian dye artisans in a dimly lit room with stone walls, handling bundles of bright red fabric. One person is wearing a striped shirt, and the other is wearing a tank top. Sunlight streams in, highlighting the fabric.
A man stands outside an Egyptian dye workshop, lighting a cigarette next to parked motorcycles and scooters carrying bags of colorful dye textiles.
Egyptian dye artisan hanging red yarn for drying on a wooden frame outdoors.